Squid Row, Eden Terrace

Europeans eating seafood in New Zealand occasionally have to take a bit of a step back and realign their expectations. Sometimes things are just... different. Not better, not worse, but different all the same, and you sometimes have to relearn a food, if you see what I mean.

Not Marmite. You just have to find English Marmite - there's no learning otherwise.

What I'm talking about essentially are mussels. Going for a kilo of moules frites, whether in London or Paris, you expect dozens of deliciously sweet little beasties, tender and flavoursome, and crisp, salted, pointy frites. Not French Fries (whatever they actually are), and not fat chips. Perhaps a bit of baguette on the side. Beer, probably.

Here, moules are an entirely other affair. Roughly the size of an old man's ear, they are, and about ten to a kilo. Meaty yet soft, and whilst just as seasidey in their flavour, there's something else going on there too, something richer, less sweet than their northern hemisphere cousins. Something tells me though that, for all their robustness, like any shellfish they're just as vulnerable to being overcooked by an inattentive chef.

Fortunately this is unlikely to occur at Squid Row. The only dodgy thing you're likely to encounter here is the name (punning restaurant names make you sound like a crap hairdresser). Squid Row is one part 50s surf style and one part Belgian beer hall, the combination working a whole lot better than it sounds. Go for the fishy options and you'll not be disappointed - our starter of squid crusted and deep-fried was one of the best versions we've had, reminding us quite why this ubiquitous dish became so popular in the first place. Moules themselves were phenomenal, the white wine (not quite mariniere but close) sauce rich and rocking with flavour, and the perfect consistency.

And the rest? Good (not great) chips - too fat and not frites by a long shot, unremarkable bread but good service even on a lively Saturday evening whilst the ABs were giving Italy less of a pasting than they probably deserved. It's got to be said, the bar for seafood in Auckland is pretty high, but Squid Row was right up there. Good moules require a good formula, a tried and tested combination of a great sauce; a careful eye on the cooking time; a noisy, busy, shouty restaurant; good frites and some decent stuff to drink. Squid Row has enough of these in place to merit a visit.


Squid Row
224 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand

+64 (0) 9 379 9344

http://www.squidrow.co.nz