Mekong Neua, Kingsland

One of the many food-related things that London does pretty poorly is Thai food. For every Soho Thai or Busaba Eathai, there's a hundred local aberrations such as Ta Krai and the like. Seriously, London has a great rep and some terrific restaurants, but scratch the surface and there's some horrible crap there. Tough, overcooked meats; thin, spiteful sauces; cynical chillies; limp... everything. We had to leave, if only for the sake of our dinners.

Fortunately since coming to Auckland we've had some tremendous Thai meals, one such being a midweek sojourn at Mekong Neua - a comparatively understated little place quietly holding its own amid louder neighbours such as Canton Café. It's a curious little place, with a roaring fire in the front section comically lent a bit of heat by a strategically-placed electric heater. Odd little touches like this aside though, it's comfortably forgettable inside.

The food's the star in this one though, with the crispier appetisers showing a deft hand on the fryer handle and a typically simple yet effective dipping sauce setting the selection off perfectly. Curries were rich, flavoursome and powerfully chillied as requested, with everything in them perfectly cooked and still bursting with flavour and character.

I don't mean to be controversial, but I think there's only so far you can take some cuisines. Thai, certain Indian, Cantonese - all great foods but you wouldn't want any of them messed with, elevated to rarified heights like the finest French or Japanese dishes. Their charm lies in their substance, their earthiness, their unfussed simplicity. So-called 'Royal' Thai as practised at places like Fulham's Blue Elephant leaves me a bit cold (not to mention irritatingly poorer).

This is where it's at - fiery chillies, substantial sauces, experienced cooking and great service. All of these are in ample supply at Mekong Neua - worth braving Kingsland's notoriously appalling parking for.