Andiamo, Herne Bay

I drive past Andiamo most days, and I've always been slightly intrigued by its elegant, sparse exterior and it's enticingly dark interior. It has a sort of exclusive, semi-Edwardian air underlying a certain modern chic. At least, that's what the outside says, anyway. So when Saturday morning brought not only faint traces of hangover but also torrential rain and an empty fridge, we went in search of brunch amongst the numerous cafes, restaurants and so on that are sprinkled along Jervois Road.

Brunch in Auckland is generally done quite well, although for those with a sore head of a weekend morning it can be a bit of a challenge. Canteen or cafe-style dining, accompanied by those under 18 years of age, is altogether too raucous, bright and noisy when you're fragile and disorientated from the night before. And so the quiet, understated luxury of Andiamo welcomed us in from the storm outside.

This is brunch - served until 6pm! - for grown-ups, especially hungover ones. The menu practically demands that you engage in a spot of 'hair of the dog', with the classic morning cocktails sitting proudly at the front of the menu, alongside a comment running something like 'breakfast at Andiamo without wine is like a day without sunshine'. Brunch options run from the comforting (baked apple with sultanas etc), to the classic (frankly terrifyingly-sized 'Andiamo breakfast'), to the challenging (lamb's kidneys), with enough range in there to cater to most tastes without being too hard to choose from. Service is quietly efficient, unobtrusive and understanding of the fact that pre-brunch, conversation is often too much of an effort to attempt.

Presumably on the understanding that one needs to put down some serious ballast at times like this, the portions are on the chunky side. I just about managed to get my serving of grilled kidneys (deliciously served with bacon, mushrooms and grain mustard sauce, on toast) down to about half its original size before throwing in the towel. The food is also thoughtfully presented, for example of my two thick slices of multigrain toast, one was under the kidneys, ensuring a good soaking in that amazing sauce, the other on the side of the plate, ensuring a good toasty crunch as well. Very simple, very clever. The wife's Andiamo breakfast was an artful pile of all things breakfasty, on which even after a good 30 minutes' effort she managed to make but a small dent.

The whole experience was exactly what I want from brunch: quiet and civilised, with the offer of palliative alcohol, and a menu with both standards and outliers in equal measure. Good coffee, papers in abundance and low lighting to complement the murmur of conversation. Needless to say, we emerged into the torrential rain well-fortified and ready to face the rest of the day. Definitely recommended if you don't plan on taking children (although this is more for my sake than yours).

As for dinner, that'll have to wait for another post, but having read the menu online I don't think it'll take that long...


Andiamo
194 Jervois Road
Herne Bay
Auckland

09 378 7811
http://www.andiamo.co.nz/