Friday, 5 March 2010
I'm back
This has changed. Last weekend I visited a restaurant that's restored my faith in Auckland's ability to turn out spectacular food, and I'll post a review on that shortly. In the meantime, however, a brief run-down on eateries of note from the past few months:
Satya, Ponsonby
Phenomenal South Indian food, defiantly authentic and richly, powerfully flavoured. This is astonishing stuff for Auckland, where it's a challenge to get a decent curry. Everything I've had from here has been great, but a personal favourite is their Vindaloo. The thing about this dish is that in most restaurants it's the 'physical challenge' choice; existing only as a vehicle for searing chilli heat and generally ordered as a way of 'impressing' someone. Typically though, a real Vindaloo has a robust flavour that's slightly sour (sour as in tamarind), reasonably hot but not aggressively so, and this one's spot on.
Grasshopper, CBD
Disappointing Thai. Limp, lacklustre, devoid of soul or interest. Dodgy furnishings, pallid flavours, avoid this like the plague. Unusual to find a Thai restaurant in New Zealand where every single aspect of it disappoints.
Big Al's Coffee and Sandwich, CBD
When the weather turns cooler again, Big Al will bring back the hot beef rolls, and for me that can't happen soon enough. Slow-cooked and pulled beef, stuffed into a baguette with gherkins, onions and horseradish. It's at the upper end of the sandwich price spectrum, but it's oh so very very good. So far, there is nothing to compare for lunch in the CBD.
Malinee Thai, Point Chevalier
Finding that you live within walking distance from a great takeaway is one of life's real pleasures - it's a bit like winning a food lottery or something. Particularly in Point Chevalier, which despite being a lovely corner of Auckland is a bit of a food desert (thank the Lord for the Westmere Butcher). Malinee Thai serves up well-priced, fresh, vibrantly tasty food, and they're more than happy to play 'hurt the white boy' if you're ballsy enough to ask for it 'thai hot'. Stand out dish has to be the prawn spring rolls, each one a massive fat prawn, covered in a mysterious but delicious stuff, wrapped in a crispy parcel. Tremendous.
Tuesday, 20 October 2009
Frankie's Wurstbude, Auckland Central
Saturday, 3 October 2009
Orbit, Auckland Central
I do start to get a bit twitchy though, when I'm approaching a restaurant at which the food is not the star attraction. It's a fairly obvious deduction to make that if you own a restaurant perched atop something like the Sky Tower, there's little incentive to focus on the quality of the food, when you know full well that a) no one's paying that much attention to it, and b) people will come for the view regardless of the quality of the food.
Selfless chap that I am, and fortified with little more than a brace of vodkas and a fairly enthusiastic G&T, I accompanied the future in-laws up the tower for a birthday meal (not mine). Perhaps it was my lowered expectations, but I was really quite impressed.
The food, then. A prix fixe including a slightly over-fussy but perfectly good smoked duck and mushroom tart, followed by roast lamb loin with a 'tomato, rosemary and kalamata olive compote' and a 'grilled spring onion', completed by a chocolate parfait, for $65 with a couple of glasses of wine thrown in. Whilst it was far from phenomenal (a well-executed but cacophonous starter, lacklustre (but perfectly cooked) lamb and frankly bizarre pairing of otherwise excellent flavours in the dessert), from a value perspective you couldn't beat it.
Service was that of a slightly more expensive restaurant - all the staff seemed properly trained, helpful and knowledgeable, and didn't seem to mind helping people find their seats again after a bathroom visit - the whole restaurant revolves about one and hour, which can get disorientating after a couple of revolutions. The wine list wasn't exceptional, but did the job very well indeed, and without the usual wallet-rape that's become all-too-frequent in this town.
So on the whole, pleasantly surprised. I was expecting awful, and instead got above-average, and crucially served at a below-average price. On the whole, if you're entertaining people from out of town who understand that sometimes the food can play second fiddle to stunning views of Auckland, Orbit could be a good bet.
Orbit
SkyCity Auckland
Corner Victoria and Federal Streets
Auckland
+64 (0) 9 363 6000
Thursday, 24 September 2009
Wishbone, Auckland Central
I don’t generally review weekday lunch venues, as there’s only so much you can say about sandwiches, but I think Wishbone deserves a mention, for having served me one of the worst lunches I’ve had in my four months of working in the CBD. To be fair, I’ve had sandwiches from here a number of times in the past and they’ve generally been a good average; fresh, well-filled and so on, and not disastrously expensive. The hot food looks tempting, and last week I was eyeing the ‘Chicken and Chorizo Paella’ hungrily, but for some reason went to the sandwich display instead.
This week I once again ignored what I’m learning are pretty good instincts, and ordered the paella. I’m regretting it right now, as I’m also regretting passing up the opportunity presented by numerous bins on the walk from Vulcan Lane to my office.
True, for $7 I’m not expecting miracles. From a metal dish kept under a heat lamp all day, I’m not expecting rice that’s not overcooked. However, budgets and cooking facilities don’t make up for a box of mushy rice and stringy chicken with so much aggressive seasoning it put me in mind of a washing up liquid I once bought, all acrid chemically rosemary and stinging salt. This is what I imagine Milton Keynes tastes like.
Let’s talk for a moment about the Chorizo. I have been living in Auckland for nine months now, and have been on the lookout for real cooking Chorizo (actually, real Chorizo of any kind would do), with no results to show so far. My luck did not turn at Wishbone, whose paella actually contained several wafer-thin slices of what seemed to be a sort of highly processed pork sausage, seasoned with a powerful chilli pepper of some kind, again artificial and tasteless beyond the burn. Grim beyond belief.
So I say this to whoever calls themselves a cook at Wishbone, and to the butchers of New Zealand in general – Chorizo is not just a spicy pork sausage, and to sell a stick of processed, acridly spiced MRM as such is criminal.
Anyway, my rant about sub-standard pork produce aside, the sandwiches are acceptable at Wishbone, but the hot food seems pretty dire. Avoid.
1 Vulcan Lane
Auckland 1010
+64 (0) 9 368 5044
Sunday, 26 July 2009
Vivace, Auckland Central
Take, for example, 'never judge a book by its cover'. Personally I tend to, and in the main I have excellent results. If the author's name is embossed, and in larger type than the title, it's probably rubbish. If it has the words Dan Brown on it, it'll be an almighty crap-fest of tenuous conspiracy theories and increasingly implausible events, written by a five-year-old. My prejudice is there for a reason, and serves me well.
The same goes with restaurants - you know the bad signs. Pictures of food outside, with the exception of certain Asian restaurants, is never a good omen. Puns in the name - never good. Waiters loitering in the doorway - instantly avoid. Names that promise too much too overtly - again with the exception of the numerous excellent Chinese restaurants named 'Lucky...' - tend to under-deliver.
Vivace reminded me on first sight of cello lessons aged 10. Dreading the sight of that word on a piece of music, whose meaning (lively, fast-paced) meant fumbled notes, sweaty hands and a grim look from the tutor as I hacked and sawed my way through a quicker than usual passage. But that's just me - I would assume that the name promises a 'lively' place, and that gives me a creeping sense that I'm about to be disappointed. Banishing these thoughts, I followed my companions in.
It's actually quite a good descriptor, this one. On a Friday evening, the place was about as lively as it could be without being irritating. Like a lot of good places on a Friday night, the exhilaration of ending a working week was tangible. Loud, vibrant and instantly appealing - the four of us joined in immediately, attacking a superb Ribiero del Duero with enthusiasm whilst attempting to order at least one of everything from the hot tapas menu.
And the food is good. For Auckland's CBD it's excellent, with the food as uplifting as the atmosphere - melting cubes of slow-cooked pork belly, sizzling chorizo slices, deliciously stuffed bell peppers and plate after plate of equally tremendous morsels which disappeared with indecent pace. The end of the meal came more as a physical necessity than anything else.
It got me thinking about going out to dinner on the weekend. Is anyone in the mood for intense fine dining on a Friday night? Or do we want to hoover excellent red wine and hearty tapas-style food, talking loudly and reveling in the weekend to come? I do - and Vivace's the place to do it. This is one place that really does live up to the name. Definitely recommended.
Vivace
50 High Street
Auckland Central
1010
+64 (0) 9 302 2303
http://www.vivacerestaurant.co.nz
Saturday, 25 April 2009
Soul Bar & Bistro, Viaduct
Eating in Auckland's Viaduct Harbour, though, stirs some of this old prejudice in me still. It's an expensive, high profile place to set up. It's the dead centre of Auckland's tourism industry. It's a mecca for stag and hen parties, after-work drinks and overseas conference attendees. Traditional wisdom would suggest that it's the last place one would go for a great meal out with a few friends.
Traditional wisdom also once suggested the world was flat.
As we've seen, the Bar / Restaurant combo is a tricky one to get right. Lively, enthusiastic drinking sits uneasily with white-tablecloth dining. Here though, as you enter, the bar curves to the right, channelling drinkers into the 'drinking' area, whilst the restaurant inside is raised up a few feet, with a heavy curtain that can be drawn across. The implied separation of the two works well. I think the main positive is for the diners; as the night draws on, the place fills up with the sort of comedy Euro-sleaze that's always great entertainment. Watching portly, overtanned balding types paw bored teenagers with their chubby, signet ringed fingers is always good value.
Fortunately though, the main attraction is the food itself, which on the face of it is the sort of pan-European-with-a-Pacific-twist cuisine that I'm learning forms the basis of most Kiwi diets. In the wrong hands this can be disastrous - blend cuisines at your peril - but here it's handled very deftly indeed, matching flavours for their compatibility and wit, rather than purely because they turned up on the same shelf in the fridge and hey, no-one's thought of it before.
My starter of stuffed zucchini flowers was purely brilliant. Simple, expertly cooked, surrounded with a piquillo pepper salsa and dots of the same venerable, sticky balsamic that accompanied the bread. It's an Italian dish that doesn't bear mucking around with, but the gentle Spanish touch from the salsa worked terrifically well.
Next followed the only real downside of the evening - an interminable wait for service. As we were a decently-sized table, it didn't matter all that much as we could keep each other entertained, but I did notice a few couples sitting with empty plates staring gloomily at the waiting staff for far too long. Interestingly, I notice that most reviews written online which complain about slow service are written by one half of a couple. When the conversation dries up, a few extra minutes spent waiting for the next course can seem like half an hour.
Still, as one of our party said shortly after the next course arrived 'That was so worth waiting for'. Despite the excellent seafood options, I'd gone for the roast chicken with Puy lentils and a smoked chipotle, lime and coriander dressing, and yep, this was up there with the best dishes I've had in New Zealand to date. Roast chicken seems simple, but it's deceptively hard to get right (which, egregiously, was sort of why I'd chosen it). Inexperienced chefs often overcook it for expediency, but this corn-fed supreme was moist, tender, chock-full of flavour and crispy of skin. Other dishes seemed similarly excellent, but to be honest I was far too focused on mine to care. Great chicken and perfectly-cooked, smokily flavoured Puy lentils tend to distract me from pretty much anything.
Dessert was going to be passed over, until the missus and I spotted the chocolate marquise with salted hazelnuts, caramel and buttermilk icecream, which was every bit as good as it sounds. Although we didn't take advantage of it (it being nearly midnight when we left - for a table booked for 1930 this is testament to the glacial service pace), an excellent-looking cheese selection was offered alongside the dessert menu, which personally I loved, being a real fan of the French-style serving of a cheese plate after a meal. I can't get this fad for serving it as a pre-dinner thing at all.
Add to this a serviceable wine list, and I have to say I was impressed. The bar element didn't bother us at all, serving mainly as a welcome bit of pre-Bad Michael Jackson and some hilarious lessons in how not to age gracefully. If anything it livened the place up a bit, resulting in an atmosphere just as uplifting, well-judged and generous as the food on our plates. As for the service, it didn't really bother us at all - we spent a leisurely evening chatting, eating and drinking and, with no immediate plans to do anything else, were perfectly happy doing just that.
Soul Bar & Bistro
Viaduct Harbour
Auckland City
+ 64 (09) 356 7249
http://www.soulbar.co.nz
Sunday, 4 January 2009
Mexican Café
If I'm honest, I was in two minds about whether to kick this blog off with a few words about this restaurant or not - certainly when I found out that I'd be going here I'd sort of written it off as another sorry Mexican attempt with plastic cacti all over the place and watery margaritas etc etc etc. You know the type.
However, two things made me decide to include it. Firstly, because on this blog I'd committed to writing about every eating out experience I had whilst living in Auckland, and secondly because it was actually really rather good.
Purists, sticklers for authenticity, Mexicans, look away now - Mexico City this isn't, but what they do turn out here (your usual fajita / chimichanga / burrito fare) they do exceptionally well. Again, authenticity demands tapas-style servings, multiple dishes per person and the occasional belt of eye-watering chilli heat, but the Mexican Café simply isn't about that.
What you can expect here is hearty servings of flavoursome, well-handled food, veering more to the Tex-Mex than just Mex. Some of the chaps around the table went for the fajitas and were rewarded with huge sizzling plates of meat with soft, warm tortillas to build their wraps with; others went for the loaded nachos and struggled to finish it. Personally speaking, my choice was the beef chimichanga, slow-cooked beef wrapped in a tortilla and deep fried. It's a tricky thing to get right - often greasy, heavy and overcooked, but this was spot on, light, crisp and packed with flavour. The accompanying refried beans hit the spot too, with a cheeky tickle of spice in there alongside beans which were, correctly, just about to turn to mush but not quite.
My only criticism was the rice, which was some sort of odd super short grain, almost the texture and consistency of cous-cous, and with none of the usual tomato / chilli flavour you'd expect.
On the liquid side, you'll be sensibly ignoring the wine list, I imagine, so plump instead for a Dos Equis, or perhaps a Modelo Negro, both great imported lagers to see, with ripe hoppy, malty flavours to stand up to the robust Tex-Mex standards. Margaritas are so-so, served in plain tumblers and crying out for a salted rim.
So all in all, it's not haute cuisine, it's perhaps not an ideal date venue, but if there are a few of you and you fancy a lively night out without spending a fortune, this is just the ticket. Expect to pay about $20-30 each before drinks.
Mexican Café
67 Victoria St West
Auckland Central
(09) 373 2311