I'm back

Eagle-eyed readers will have spotted that it's been a while since my last entry, and there's really no excuse for this. If I'm honest there's a number of things at work here, partly that I got married a few weeks ago, which took up a bit of time, and partly that I became a bit sick of constantly writing about disappointing experiences, of which I'd had several. I had become bored, disillusioned and generally a bit apathetic.

This has changed. Last weekend I visited a restaurant that's restored my faith in Auckland's ability to turn out spectacular food, and I'll post a review on that shortly. In the meantime, however, a brief run-down on eateries of note from the past few months:

Satya, Ponsonby
Phenomenal South Indian food, defiantly authentic and richly, powerfully flavoured. This is astonishing stuff for Auckland, where it's a challenge to get a decent curry. Everything I've had from here has been great, but a personal favourite is their Vindaloo. The thing about this dish is that in most restaurants it's the 'physical challenge' choice; existing only as a vehicle for searing chilli heat and generally ordered as a way of 'impressing' someone. Typically though, a real Vindaloo has a robust flavour that's slightly sour (sour as in tamarind), reasonably hot but not aggressively so, and this one's spot on.


Grasshopper, CBD
Disappointing Thai. Limp, lacklustre, devoid of soul or interest. Dodgy furnishings, pallid flavours, avoid this like the plague. Unusual to find a Thai restaurant in New Zealand where every single aspect of it disappoints.


Big Al's Coffee and Sandwich, CBD
When the weather turns cooler again, Big Al will bring back the hot beef rolls, and for me that can't happen soon enough. Slow-cooked and pulled beef, stuffed into a baguette with gherkins, onions and horseradish. It's at the upper end of the sandwich price spectrum, but it's oh so very very good. So far, there is nothing to compare for lunch in the CBD.


Malinee Thai, Point Chevalier
Finding that you live within walking distance from a great takeaway is one of life's real pleasures - it's a bit like winning a food lottery or something. Particularly in Point Chevalier, which despite being a lovely corner of Auckland is a bit of a food desert (thank the Lord for the Westmere Butcher). Malinee Thai serves up well-priced, fresh, vibrantly tasty food, and they're more than happy to play 'hurt the white boy' if you're ballsy enough to ask for it 'thai hot'. Stand out dish has to be the prawn spring rolls, each one a massive fat prawn, covered in a mysterious but delicious stuff, wrapped in a crispy parcel. Tremendous.

Mekong Neua, Kingsland

One of the many food-related things that London does pretty poorly is Thai food. For every Soho Thai or Busaba Eathai, there's a hundred local aberrations such as Ta Krai and the like. Seriously, London has a great rep and some terrific restaurants, but scratch the surface and there's some horrible crap there. Tough, overcooked meats; thin, spiteful sauces; cynical chillies; limp... everything. We had to leave, if only for the sake of our dinners.

Fortunately since coming to Auckland we've had some tremendous Thai meals, one such being a midweek sojourn at Mekong Neua - a comparatively understated little place quietly holding its own amid louder neighbours such as Canton Café. It's a curious little place, with a roaring fire in the front section comically lent a bit of heat by a strategically-placed electric heater. Odd little touches like this aside though, it's comfortably forgettable inside.

The food's the star in this one though, with the crispier appetisers showing a deft hand on the fryer handle and a typically simple yet effective dipping sauce setting the selection off perfectly. Curries were rich, flavoursome and powerfully chillied as requested, with everything in them perfectly cooked and still bursting with flavour and character.

I don't mean to be controversial, but I think there's only so far you can take some cuisines. Thai, certain Indian, Cantonese - all great foods but you wouldn't want any of them messed with, elevated to rarified heights like the finest French or Japanese dishes. Their charm lies in their substance, their earthiness, their unfussed simplicity. So-called 'Royal' Thai as practised at places like Fulham's Blue Elephant leaves me a bit cold (not to mention irritatingly poorer).

This is where it's at - fiery chillies, substantial sauces, experienced cooking and great service. All of these are in ample supply at Mekong Neua - worth braving Kingsland's notoriously appalling parking for.